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SUPAI

Havasu, Mooney & Beaver falls

DISTANCE

19 km

out and back

TIME

4h20

(with breaks)

ELEVATION

672m

TH          1366m

Supai 700m

ESSENTIALS

SEASON

(of the report)

YOU'LL NEED

  • Headlights

  • Good shoes, backpack

  • A permit

  • 4L of water/person

In summer 2019 we took our 4th trip in the southwest and this one was really special. As a matter of fact, we were lucky enough to get permits for camping in Supai during 3 nights. In this hike report there will be 2 different hikes with the first one being the trailhead to Havasu campground and the second from there to Beaver falls.

 

BEFORE GOING:

  • You have to get permits prior to arrive as you will be controlled even before the trailhead parking lot. Getting the permits is not really complicated but you have to be lucky and perseverant. There's only one way to get them and all the informations are on this page.

  • Trailhead to Campground (and back up): Start early! Not only this hike is quite long in distance, but it can take some time to find the path and is really exposed to the sun.  Stay alert if starting your hike by night, make sure you have headlights and watch out for scorpions (also mountain lions apparently, make some noise). Bring:  plenty of water (4L/person), this is total wilderness and there's no river on the way to the campground, you need to be self-sufficient.

  • Campground: As the minimum length of stay is set to 3 nights, make sure to have food, clothes (don't forget your bathing suit) and gear (tent, hammock, ratsack) etc. Don't hesitate to contact me for a more detailed list or informations on the gear I took. The most important is to try keep it simple and thus have a lighter backpack. Finally, there's a small market in Supai where you will find some basics (chips, candies, drinks) but situated more than 3km from the campground.

  • As always: Check the weather and have a good preparation both wether it is at a physical or equipment level.

  • Finally, I will suggest to do it on your own. There are possibilities to take an helicopter ride or mules carrying your bag, but I don't think it's the right way to do it as it's totally feasible by foot. Yes this will require some exercise and preparation but you will be even more proud!  

WHEN TO GO?

We did this in August and it was really hot during the day so we started both hikes up and down at 3 a.m.  Once in the evergreen Supai and near the campground the temperature was perfect especially during the night. Nevertheless, try to find some shadow to install your tent and stay close to the water spring.

I've read some reports about people going during winter or fall and apparently it's possible at almost any season.

N.B. : We had a GPS watch but as we were down in a canyon it didn't manage the change of altitude so well by sometimes putting us on the top of the canyon. I don't have precisely the time we did for each portion of the trail so I'll try to approximate, hence the hike description will not be precise. 

START - HUALAPAI HILLTOP

The Hualapai Hilltop is situated 60 km from Peach Springs' Road 66 (approximately 1h15). We decided to arrive at sunset and sleep some time in our car before to start hike around 3 a.m. so as to avoid heat. If you're staying there please be respectful to other hikers and try not to flash your headlight in their cars and make as little noise as possible. 

This report will be made on the way down to Supai so think about it in reverse for the way back up More elevation gain for example, means more time.

I sadly don't have precise indications about the time for each portion of the trail but the first half hour is the steepest one (important for your way back, you don't want to hike these laces in full sun). Then you will have approximately 2 hours of a pretty easy stroll between at first open canyon walls that are closing little by little. This part is beautiful with a changing landscape, especially if you woke up early and walk with the sunrise light. 

Supai

Finally you will join Havasu Creek by turning left after the indicating sign, it will be pretty obvious as until now you were stuck following one canyon and had no other option. It will take you around 40 minutes to reach the village of Supai from there. Apparently, this is the area where mountain lions were spotted by people (us included). No need to be scared just make sure to talk or make some noise, they usually don't want to come in contact. Also I would say that the dogs in the village are also to be watched as I heard that some hikers got bitten by them. Once you've reached the visitor center (and you have to) you'll exchange your permits for bracelets to keep during your stay. 

It's not done yet because you have to walk another 50 minutes to reach the campground. And yes, at this point you will be exhausted but the sight of Havasu Falls when arriving will make you forget all the pain.

THE CAMPGROUND

Right after Havasu Falls starts the campground and goes all the way until Mooney Falls (2 km). As the region is prone to flash floods I would suggest to think about it when choosing your camping spot. ​We installed our camp on the left side and far from the river, near the water spring and cliffs. It was perfect as we had some shadow, drinkable water and restrooms close to us. Yes, this is important, think about the distance you want to walk at night along with scorpions, other crawlers and even raccoons (yeah, I think they're cute too but not in the dark). 

Another important point is to keep your food safe and away from squirrels and other rodents. There were a lot of them everywhere and even though they are are cute they will chew through your bags (and tents) ruthlessly. We hang our food in a ratsack while we put the thrash in a canister that was lend by the local ranger. Don't hesitate to go and see him if you miss anything as a lot of visitors left some of their gear behind when it's time to hike back up (I don't endorse this kind of attitude but this is another discussion). Oh and of course, please, if you borrow one of these canisters, give it back to the ranger as I saw him going around the campground to collect those that were left by some disrespectful visitors.

CAMPGROUND TO BEAVER FALLS

As for all hikes during summer and even if you're in a beautiful green valley: take enough water for the day (3L/person)! Unfortunately I do not have precise records for this hike but it is approximately 13 km long and will take about 2 hours each way.

The hike starts at the top of Mooney Falls by the end of the campground, and it will wake you up instantly. While it is only 60 m of elevation loss, the descent to Mooney Falls is quite epic. A special combination of steep slopes constantly getting splashed by the fall makes it quite challenging, not to mention possible crowds where it's impossible to cross. I wish I had pictures to show you how it is but as you know I'm afraid of certain type of heights (especially slippery slopes) so I didn't even think about taking pics. 

Ok so now you did it, you're at the bottom of Mooney Falls, well done! Time to take the trail to Beaver Falls and try not to get lost. The first part is quite obvious and easy to find, you will navigate across a huge green bush valley with a well marked trail. There will come a time when you will have to cross the river and this is where we got "lost" a few times but it's still easy to find your way again. At some point (I know, it's not precise at all ) you will climb several ladders to gain elevation and follow the river flow from the other bank (right) than where you started (left).  

Going back down to Beaver Falls will require some more scrambling through rocks and ladders but as you can see in the pictures: totally worth it! If you woke up early enough you might be lucky and have the falls - almost - all for yourself.  Now you can enjoy the beautiful pools, relax but do not forget to keep an eye to your backpack if you have food in it as mine got destroyed by a hungry squirrel.

There is a way further down the river to join the confluence with the Colorado River. We didn't do it as it would double the total distance (up to 30km) and we wanted to enjoy some well-deserved rest. 

IMPORTANT NOTE

I'm sure you're convinced now that this place is like paradise on earth, and it's true! However, during our stay we unfortunately have observed some disrespectful behaviours.

First, pack back up everything that you have brought down in the canyon (even take some more when possible). Before to go, test your backpack weight and walk several hours with it so as to see if you're able to carry all of this. If it's not the case, try to take only the necessary items and make it lighter (yes, you will survive 4 days without moisturising cream).

 

Second, having a lighter backpack will also help you to do the whole trip by yourself and not book a helicopter flight or mules. I think it's important to understand that such remote and preserved places need to stay that way; meaning that they shouldn't be highways and only done by hiking. Moreover,  the reward of doing it autonomously must be your motivation! We were only 3 couples going back up with full backpacks while others made theirs be carried by mules. If you're a little bit worried by animals condition then also: don't do this! 

Finally, do not pollute this environment! We saw several items left behind by visitors on the campsite as if the ranger's job was to clean after them. I'm sorry to repeat myself but DO NOT BRING UNNECESSARY GEAR! We saw people going down with inflatable mattresses that they used once and throw away. It is important to understand that this is not a random touristic area, we are welcomed on sacred lands that are shared with us. Their rich diversity needs to stay preserved and can only be if we all are respectful visitors of this nature. 

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